Monday, February 14, 2011

KYOTO SALMON SOUP



Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes

            During a trip to Kyoto, we learned valuable cooking secrets from our host, Yoko. She made this fish soup for us when we arrived, jet lagged and tired. She made it in a boiler pot, right on the table, adding ingredients to cook as she removed the cooked items into our bowls, and it was an ongoing sampling feast.
            I have modified the dish for a western kitchen. This soup is intended to be an entire meal, and once you have the correct ingredients lined up, you can’t go wrong. Play around with different fish (although shrimp doesn’t work well). I prefer Atlantic salmon because of its rich flavor and amount of fat. In Japan, Yoko even used blowfish (that’s the one that kills you if you get any contamination from the poison sac). Basically, any fish firm enough to withstand poaching will be fine, but I focused on salmon.

MUSIC: Let’s see: twenty minutes. Prokofiev’s Violin Concerto no. 1 is gorgeous. Or, the Japanese composer Toru Takamitsu is important and beautiful, worth listening to. Or forget about all those, and put on Tenderly, by Buddy DeFranco, and then the version by Chet Baker, as you are cutting the fish.

HERE’S ALL YOU NEED:
  1. Salmon, 1 pound, warmed to room temperature. (You can use any other fleshy white fish instead of, or along with the salmon).
  2. Bok choy, one large or three baby, chopped coarsely
  3. Tofu (soft, silken variety), one container
  4. Ginger root, cut in thin strips, total about 1 heaping Tablespoon
  5. Green onions, one or two, chopped coarsely
  6. Mushrooms, quartered into small bite size pieces. (button, Cremona, Enoki, oyster, shiitake are fine), total up to 2 Cups max.
  7. Soy sauce, 2 Tablespoons
  8. Rice vinegar (NOT low calorie/low sodium), 2 Tablespoons
  9. Garnish: soy sauce, rice vinegar, spiced soy (eg Ponzu).
  10. Rice: about 1 Cup Japanese sushi rice, cooked in a rice cooker is best, but any rice is fine.
HERE’S WHAT TO DO:
  • Cook rice.
  • While rice is cooking, cut tofu into cubes, and fish into large bite-sized pieces
  • In a 4 quart 10 inch sauce pan or wok or boiler pot, place enough water to accommodate the ingredients (2 inches in the sauce pan, or about 1 ½ to 2 quarts).
  • Add onions and ginger and heat to near boil.
  • Add soy sauce and rice vinegar.
  • Add mushrooms and boil gently for 1-2 minutes.
  • Add bok choy.
  • Add fish and tofu and adjust heat down so there is no active boiling.
  • Cook until fish is done, about 5 minutes (with salmon, just done, or a little underdone is better for texture than over done.

CADENZA: Serve soup over rice in a bowl. Splash with additional flavorings: soy sauce, rice vinegar, flavored soy such as Ponzu or other Japanese equivalent. Black or mixed ground pepper is also good. Don’t burn your mouth!
WINE: Tea is best. Beer is second best. Sauvignon blanc third. I often go with the third. Why is that?

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