Leeks sauté, the easy way

                           

                                                Prep time: 15 minutes

                                                Cook time: 30 minutes

            Leeks are indispensible as an alternative to the standard green vegetables like broccoli, asparagus, and green beans. The subtle sweetness of leeks, combined with their hint of onion flavor make for a delicious side dish to accompany meat, fish, or other vegetables.

            Sybil introduced me to leeks. She once said that if you want to blend into rural French life, just have some leeks protruding from your grocery bag. Everyone will think you are French! That the French are big on leeks says something about how good they are. More and more, beautiful leeks are on the shelves in grocery stores and farmers’ markets all over North America.

            Many home cooks are intimidated by leeks because of fancy presentations they have tried at restaurants. This recipe, like most in this book, is simple. Use it for a dinner at home or for entertaining. The standard quantity easily serves four but could be stretched to six with slightly smaller portions.    

IN ESSENCE: Chopping eliminates the stringiness that happens if you try to cook whole leaves. The low heat sauté, covered mostly, allows them to steam and soften in their own juices.

MUSIC: Bob Dylan (Lay Lady Lay, or Spirit on the Water); or Joni Mitchell. I usually don’t go for folk music, but good memories were made one time when I prepared this dish while listening to Bob Dylan. If you don’t do folk music, try Pat Metheney, the LETTER FROM HOME album, or Tuck Andress, exquisite solo jazz guitar from the RECKLESS album.

HERE’S ALL YOU NEED:

1. Leeks, 3 or 4 whole stalks                                                  
2. Butter, 1 tablespoon,
3. Salt and pepper
4. (optional: Cream (10% to 30% butter fat), ¼ Cup)
5. (optional: Nutmeg, ground, about ¼ teaspoon)

HERE’S WHAT TO DO:

• Clean the leeks. The white part grows so tightly that it is usually grit-free, but dirt invariably gets into the base of the green part. If you plan on using the green part of the stalk (which you should, except when making vichyssoise), you must wash each leaf carefully to get all the dirt off.
• Chop the leeks. I recommend a fairly fine chop. Pieces about the size of postage stamps are perfect.  This requires a large chopping board and a long French chopping knife or Chinese style vegetable cleaver.
• Place chopped leeks and butter into any large sauce pan or skillet that can be covered. I usually use a 10 inch, 3 quart saucepan.
• Cook at medium low heat, being careful to avoid sticking or burning, for about 30 minutes. You could use cooking oil or olive oil instead of butter, but butter enhances the leek flavor nicely. You may need add a little water during the cooking, usually no more than a few tablespoons.
• Salt and pepper to taste.
• See VARIATIONS below.

CADENZA: This dish accompanies pork tenderloin medallions beautifully. Also good with a white fish such as sole, cod, or halibut. Or serve with roasted red peppers, potatoes, or sweet potatoes for a purely vegetarian delight.

VARIATIONS ON A THEME: Add some cream at the end. Leeks and cream are an unbeatable combination. About ¼ cup of table cream (18% butter fat), or heavy cream (35% butter fat) should suffice. Add nutmeg, ¼ to ½ teaspoon for a real treat, especially if serving with fish. Delicious.

WINE: With the leeks themselves, a French Chablis or white Burgundy are splendid. If you are serving with pork, a Beaujolais or Pinot noir go very well.